Havana I’m Coming – Volume 2
Make sure to catch up with Volume 1.
Once I finally arrived in Cuba after the shennanigans of Volume 1, it was honestly like a dream. I did not believe I was there till I’d past customs and was looking for where to change my money. Shortly after I was in a taxi on my way to my AirBnB. I booked a room in a family’s home because mi Espanol es malo, entiendo Espanol pequena pero puedo leer Espanol un poco. I thought at least with an English-speaking host I can get tips, guidance etc, because the truth is I landed in Havana with my luggage, money, just about my senses and zero plans apart from reaching my host’s house. Yolo. It was in Havana Vieja a stone-throw from the beautiful Malecon.
Old Havana and New Havana. The difference between a 2.5 Cuc bottle of water or a .50 CUC. I’m advised very quickly not to buy things in Old Havana because it’s expensive. It makes me feel strange when I realise what the difference is in real terms for me; literally less than a pound vs a lot less than a pound. I feel simultaneously ashamed and grateful. Ashamed of what must look like my opulent wealth, and grateful that even if in comparative terms I am borderline poor in England, I was still able to fly to Cuba. And I’d say this overwhelmingly characterises my trip to Cuba; gratefulness…for the kindness of people, for good food, for the beauty of nature, for our differences of people, and for life. It is good to be alive.
Whenever most people think of Cuba, they think of the old cars and Cuban music, I guess that’s mostly what the media shows, but I quickly realise that there’s so much more. And that Cuba is not equal to Havana. Havana is interesting, with it’s main roads and walkways flooded with tourists from everywhere but America (Trump issues), and it’s residential streets filled with dust, narrow walkways, misshapen paving stones, the residues of witchcraft rituals practised in the night and bursting life. Because everyone hangs out outside whether seated and watching people, playing in the street, talking to friends, or walking. I think for me this was the best part of Havana because this was where Cubans were and I was able to assimilate completely.
You see Havana is mostly black people, and when you’re a black traveller, you’re used to going to places where you stick out like a sore thumb, you’re stared at either to confirm pre-conceptions or because you’ve never been seen before, and it makes travelling a little uncomfortable at times. Sometimes you don’t want to answer questions about why you’re there and where you’re from, nor keep catching eyes with people who just as rapidly look away as though they’ve been caught doing something wrong. In Havana I could just be my full self without reservation and no-one troubled me because they thought I was one of them and that gave me freedom to explore with ease various corners of the city. Sure when Cubans started talking to me in Spanish, after the initial puzzled look of why I was stuttering and realisation dawned, if they could speak English they spoke to me as if I was family. They showed me where to get cheap food, the best food, told me where to spend money, where I should go, and one or two may have enjoyed a mojito on me, lol.
I can’t really say I’m a monuments and landmark person but whilst on a 5 hour bike ride of Havana (which was actually pretty sick bar the initial shock of realising I would be cycling on motorways and up a ridiculously steep hill), I got to see every single one of importance in the city, and here are a few of the best:
Whilst in Cuba I took the opportunity to visit one of the other cities a few hours drive away. And what an outstandingly beautiful place it was.
Vinales Valley is truly one of the most beautiful places I’ve seen in the world. I went with a tour group and on our arrival we were welcomed with what were told were the best Pina Colada’s ever. Oh and we also got to put in the rum ourselves. Ratings out of 10? A strong 9. 9.5 even with the view.
Whilst in the valley we visited a tobacco farm where we were shown from start to finish how Cuban cigars are made. The guy literally rolled a few before our eyes and gave them to us to try out. The answer is yes. I smoked it. Lol.
Vinales also contains caves which we floated through on a dingy, but before that, what would it be without a bit of freshly squeezed sugar cane juice, (rum, optional)? Of course I opted in. I’ve had sugar cane before, as a Nigerian we chew that for fun, but I had never had it as a drink and it literally blew my mind the first time I had it (in Havana). One of the best drinks on the planet. Sugar cane juice, with crushed ice (even without the rum) – my gosh…heavenly!
On exiting the caves one of the vendors gave me a bamboo grasshopper and I don’t know why I was so thrilled with it, but I was basically overjoyed, hahaha. Very talented!
I was only able to spend 6 days in Havana due to Part 1, however it’s definitely one of the best places I’ve ever travelled, and the best Caribbean island I’ve gone to so far….and it was the genuine kindness and openness of the people that bumped it to the top. Incomparable.
Truly I’ve only been able to include just some of the great experiences I had there, and for someone who is generally not a fan of repeating places to travel, I definitely want to go back and explore some of the other renown cities. That’s how much I loved it. If you’re thinking of going, let me know. I have a few recommendations.
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